The Vortech MP10 pushes 500 to 1,575 gallons per hour

Rated for tanks from 20 to 50 gallons in size, Ecotech Marine’s new Vortech MP10 propeller pump looks an excellent addition to the company’s innovative line of circulation devices.

Vortech MP10 specs

Flow: 500 to 1575 gph
Wattage: 8 to 18 watts
Maximum Tank Thickness: 3/8″
Tank range: 2.5 to 50 gal
Dimensions: Wet Side- 2.5″ by 1.5″ long; Dry Side – 2.5″ by 2″ long
Space needed behind aquarium: 2.25″

Like EcoTech’s other Vortech pumps, the nicest aspect of the MP10 is that the pump comes in two parts. The electrics and motor sits outside of the glass, with the propeller powered within the tank via magnetic induction through the tank glass.

This two-part design keeps heat transfer in the tank to a minimum, compared to other water-cooled pumps, which is especially handy for the nano-range tanks the MP10 is aimed at.

The manufacturer claims it’s safer, too.

MP10 ideal for nanos

Ecotech Marin’s president Tim Marks says:

“Minimal visual intrusion in the aquarium is essential to the nano reef enthusiast experience. The MP10, without question, offers the smallest in-tank foot print of any commercially available pump capable of pushing 1,575 gallons per hour, once again proving that size does matter.

The marketplace demanded this product so we’ve applied our expertise in developing low-profile pumps to this burgeoning segment and the early indications are people are blown away by its sleek looks, versatility and broad flow.”

The MP10 is due out in the U.S. in late Spring, priced $195.

We haven’t seen UK release details yet, but we’d expect it to sell for around £145, and to arrive around June.

For full specifications, check out Ecotech’s MP10 Propeller Pump page.

Further reading:

1. New Ecotech Marine Vortech 20 pump looks promising
2. Tunze launches new Silence pump range
3. The Warner Marine RX150 reviewed by Glassbox Design

The Fluval Edge is clearly meant as a designer aquarium

Hagen’s new Fluval Edge aquarium is due to go on sale next week. It’s a striking design, but I’ve got a few queries about how this fish tank will perform in every day use.

The new six-gallon rimless aquarium is a nearly-sealed tank. The filter and lighting equipment are housed in special boxes above and to the back of the aquarium, and the top of the tank is covered off with glass, too.

Access to the water is via an area concealed beneath the lighting pod.

According to Hagen:

Inspired by architectural styling, the EDGE aquarium, a 23 L three-dimensional water cube, provides a unique visual effect capturing emotion and serenity within a contemporary setting.

Sealed glass top provides high definition viewing and reduces evaporation for less maintenance. Retractable halogen lighting system, suitable for aquatic plants and casts a unique shimmering effect. Removable cover for easy aquarium and filter access. Overhead ventilation grill dissipates lamp heat and avoids moisture. Powerful easy to use EDGE filter with 3 stage filtration to ensure clear water and a healthy environment.

Until the tank arrives it’s unclear how easy it will be to aquascape the tank, let alone catch fish or clean-up algae, but according to Practical Fishkeeping’s preview, special tools will be provided to help keep this unique tank looking trim:

A small range of Edge accessories is available, including specific tools to aid cleaning the aquarium, including a gravel cleaner, algae magnet and a specially shaped net “to ensure it is easy to keep the Edge in pristine condition”.

The Edge aquarium is due to arrive in the UK on April 6th priced £119.00, though I haven’t spotted any for sale online in the UK yet.

I have, however, found a U.S. online retailer, Lots of Pets, offering the tanks for $149.00.

Hagen says the tank is suitable for tropical fish like tetras and rasboras, as well as goldfish. I’d question the latter, and not only because the tank is far too small for coldwater fish with their high oxygen requirements and bigger size, but also because the tank will probably need to be crammed full of plants to keep algae down and reduce what’s likely to be painful maintenance.

It’s clearly not a marine tank out of the box, but no doubt some of the nano reef crowd will pimp the lighting and produce some special Edge tanks. Certainly the top down viewing conditions will appeal to those who love mushroom corals and ricordea, for instance.

Perhaps that sums up the trouble with these little designer tanks (I’d include the BioOrbs and other designer nanos in this bracket). They are okay for keeping a few small guppies or similar in, but the beginners who buy them are the most likely to overstock them, and the least likely to have the skills to keep them in great condition. Looking after a 40-gallon tank is easier than keeping a five-gallon tank healthy, period.

That aside, it’s nice to see Hagen responding to new developments in fishkeeping. A plain, affordable rimless pre-drilled shallow four-foot by two-foot glass tank would be my suggestion for any manufacturer looking for a hot trend to follow next.

Update 5 April 2009: I’ve spotted the Fluval Edge for sale in one UK aquatic chain in London, priced £89.99.

Further reading:

1. How to choose an aquarium heater
2. This FOWLR offers a true slice of a reef
3. Algae control in a freshwater aquarium

The magazine reports Mars Fishcare as saying:

“In recent years, the sharp rise in competition in the tank market has made it difficult for Mars Fishcare to optimise its resources in this area.

Mars Fishcare Europe is taking steps to refocus its European business in aquarium equipment and water treatment, and to strengthen its position in the European fish food market.”

Existing customers whose tank is under guarantee with Rena will be protected as normal.

Rena makes a large range of aquariums, generally in the mid-sized range.

Its tanks are attractive and often bundled with decent Rena equipment, although it’s fair to say that as basic glass boxes on beech or other wood effect stands they’re not massively different to all the generic rivals out there, compared to the more cutting-edge tank designs now emerging.

Further reading:

1. CO2 in planted aquariums
2. Could coldwater aquariums be the next big thing in marine fishkeeping?
3. New Ecotech Marine Vortech 20 pump looks promising

Author Keith MacNeil points out that:

Corals have an alga called zooxanthellae within their tissue. When the zooxanthellae photosynthesize, it produces enough sugar to not only feed the zooxanthellae but the coral as well. To do this properly, they require the proper spectrum of light as well as the proper intensity.

The spectrum and intensity of your light bulb(s) will fade over time. Often this change is subtle enough that the human eye cannot detect a difference.

It is quite the contrary for the organisms requiring light to survive.

So when should you change your bulbs? The answer depends mainly on what bulbs you have fitted.

Macneil suggests the following is a good rule-of-thumb for bulbs.

Bulb Types                  Life of Bulb
Normal Output Fluorescent    6-12 months
Very High Output (VHO)       6-12 months
Power Compact (PC)           9-12 months
T5 High Output (T5HO)        9-18 months
Metal Halide                 9-12 months
LED (non-moonlight)          ~5 years (50,000 hours)

There’s loads more good advice on what other variables can affect the lighting, so do go check out the full article for more information.

Bulbs change reef lighting economics

The need to change bulbs frequently can really change the economics of your lighting set-up, depending on what you’re keeping and what sort of rig you’re using.

With the drop in pricing for replacement metal halide bulbs in the past few years, for instance, what was once the most expensive lighting option can work out cheaper than normal flourescents, or even T5s, when bulb changing is taken into account.

The new expensive kid on the block is being sold partly on the strength of its low-running costs and long bulb life.

LED units cost around £150 here in the UK for a two-strip 24-watt unit that it’s claimed will last for ten years.

Not only do those watts count for far more than normal flourescent bulb output, but LED enthusiasts reckon the unit will pay for itself within 3-5 years if electricity prices stay high.

Further reading:

1. Terry Siegel’s reef aquarium catches fire
2. How to choose an aquarium heater
3. Coral reefs and climate change

John keeps 22 tanks, and dedicates most of Sunday to keeping his tanks ticking over:

The room consists of 22 tanks, plus additional containers that hold killifish eggs or fry and live food cultures.

The tanks set on wooden racking attached to the wall range from 90 x 30 x 30cm/36” x 12” x 12 “; 60 x 30 x 30cm/24” x 12” x 12” to 30 x 20 x 20cm/12” x 8” x 8”. At any time there could be up to 12 plastic tubs holding killifish fry and about another 12 holding killifish eggs.

Resting on the glass covers of the top row of tanks are live food cultures of microworm and Grindalworm and two bottles that contain my hatching brine shrimp.

In the tanks there are adult breeding stock and young fish that could go down in size to minute just free swimming fry.

John’s schedule is very organized. It even drills down to little pre-prepared reminders he leaves himself when he changes the water in tanks and so on, so he doesn’t get confused by all the tanks he’s cleaning.

If like me you dream of having a dedicated fish room, the work he describes might make you think twice!

Further reading:

1. Fish aren’t toys for two weeks of fun at Christmas
2. University of Florida breeds spotted green puffer fish
3. Pink Skunk clownfish spawning video

Depending on the tools and materials you have at your disposal, you can come up with your own unique projects to add to your enjoyment of the hobby. DIY creations can range from simple MacGyver-type projects made with odds and ends from around the house to intricate projects using quality materials that give the aquarium industry’s best products a run for their money.

Either way, DIY projects can be cost-saving, fun and rewarding for hobbyists of all levels.

Here are my top 7 reasons to DIY.

1. Saves you money

Ever looked at an aquarium product and wondered why it cost so much for something that seems so basic? A little ingenuity and research can help you discover projects to help cut your costs down while adding a necessary or optional feature to your setup.

If I can save $50, that’s another piece of equipment I can buy or a few nice coral frags or fish I can add to my system.

2. Keeps you from being idle

I know I am constantly looking for ideas to do to make my system better and am always looking to do something with my tank. There are only so many times you can re-aquascape without causing stress to your tank’s inhabitants. DIY is a great way to add additional components to make your critters thrive.

3. Boost your pride

It’s a great feeling to know you accomplished something, and even better when you surprise yourself on how well the project came out. It’s also a great way to feel more in-tune with your system. There is nothing like sitting back and seeing just how your work has come together – something you just can’t get with a turnkey all-in-one set-up.

4. Expand your knowledge and skills

Researching how something works, what the benefits are and then building it expands both your knowledge and skill in the hobby.

I never had a protein skimmer before, but I decided the best way to get an effective skimmer on my budget was to make one. Boy did it take a lot of time, research and design before I even picked up a saw and acrylic, but I learned ever so much about skimmer design and function. (You can see my skimmer I modeled after the Deltec AP600 on my blog).

5. Simple solutions and problem solving

DIY often gives you the ability to fix or alter something on your setup with minimal effort. This is where having plenty of zip ties, acrylic scraps and glue and some spare PVC pipe and fittings come in handy.

For example, I bought a DIY automatic top-off kit with two float switches. The kit came with a great little bracket you can mold with hot water. It worked for a few days but I really wanted something beefier and more stable. A few cuts of acrylic, a few holes drilled and in less than an hour I had the EXACT bracket I needed!

6. It can be therapeutic

For some people, having something to do with their hands besides cleaning the house or doing yard work is a great therapy from the stressors in your life. I know there have been plenty of times where a few hours in the garage working on something was a great distraction, taking my mind off a tough day at work.

7. It’s fun!

Okay, there will be many times where you’ll get yourself stuck or make a bad cut and have to go out to the store and buy more materials, but DIY is more often something fun to do in your spare time. Grab a few hobbyist friends and a few cold beverages and have fun building something.

Getting started with DIY

There are probably plenty of other reasons to build a DIY aquarium project, but those are the top reasons why I do it.

If you’re looking for projects, take advantage of the plethora of online sites and forums out there. Find one that fits your niche in the hobby and start reading away and ask questions. I have found lots of great ideas this way, whether following someone else’s build exactly or combining many different ideas into my own unique project.

Check out local clubs, too. They’re a great way to meet new people in the hobby, as well as a chance to exchange ideas and get an extra set of hands to help you out.

Further reading:

1. August 2008 issue of Reefkeeping Magazine, with DIY Wavebox tutorial
2. The Warner Marine RX150 reviewed by Glassbox Design
3. Five ways to save money on your aquarium

The rest of us need to choose an aquarium heater that will keep tank water in the range preferred by our fish: usually between 20-30 ºC, with 24ºC being suitable for most common tropical fish.

Note that even if you heat your house, an aquarium heater is usually required. That’s because the aquarium water doesn’t just need to be warm, the temperature should also be as stable as possible.

Fish, particularly more delicate ones like marines and discus, are as stressed by fluctuating temperatures as they are by water that’s too warm or cold. You don’t want the temperature to dip at night and then rise by day, for instance.

Aquarium heaters must therefore use thermostats to keep the temperature constant. The thermostat may be a separate device that you connect to the heater or, far more commonly these days, it can be built into a single device with the heater.

What size aquarium heater?

Aquarium heaters are rated in watts. Manufacturers also state on the packaging what size tank a particular heater is designed for.

The rule of thumb is that you require five watts per gallon to heat one gallon of water. So a 20-gallon tank would require a 100-watt heater.

The five watts per gallon rule is pretty conservative, especially with large tanks in centrally-heated homes. (Larger tanks lose heat more slowly than smaller tanks). If you have a 30 or even a 40-gallon tank, unless your house gets very cold at night you’ll find a 100-watt heater will suffice.

For larger aquariums it’s better to have two heaters, and to split the wattage. So for a 50-gallon tank, you might have two 100-watt heaters, say. The reason is that if the thermostat fails and the heater sticks ‘on’, you hopefully won’t boil all your fish before you notice a heater is broken. (I’ve over-heated a small tank of fish, and it is a dispiriting experience indeed).

Some new heaters include an alarm to warn you when they stick ‘on’, or you might notice from strange fish activity such as gasping at the surface, or from the thermometer of course. If your heater does fail, turn it off but don’t remove it right away as the glass can get very hot and may crack over your fish tank.

Types of aquarium heater

There are several types of aquarium heater, although nearly everyone now uses the standard combined heater/thermostat units, which are cheap, fairly accurate and very convenient. I’ll consider some more specialized heaters below, too.

Combined heater/thermostat

These are long thin glass tubes, containing the heater at the bottom and the adjustable thermostat at the top. The whole unit is designed to be submersed in your aquarium. The unit can crack if it’s switched on without water, and it can also get too hot to touch, so take care when cleaning your tank – even though you’ve switched the power off first.

The heater is always a coiled element within the tube, though some modern units make the tube out of toughened plastic rather than glass. Tough plastic is less prone to cracking or burning aquarium inhabitants.

The thermostat may be an old-fashioned metallic strip element, or a more modern microchip-based unit. The former have stood the test of time, though the latter may be more accurate – at least until the chip fails! If a microchip thermostat should fail, the chip is meant to fail in the ‘off’ position, giving you plenty of time to install a spare heater when you notice the tank cooling. Warming water quickly is a much more dangerous situation.

Combined units invariably have a light at the top to tell you when the heater is working. Position the unit so you can see this light when the heater is on, so you can check things are working as they should. (e.g. If the tank is too cool, the light should be on to show the heater is working).

Combined heater/thermostats are the best choice for 95% of aquariums.

Separate thermostat

Sometimes you may want to heat your tank the old-fashioned way, using a separate heater and a thermostat. For instance, you may be using an undertank heater or you might want to use a smaller heater in your aquarium, keeping the bulky thermostat outside of the tank.

External thermostats are easier to adjust, and your hands can stay dry. The combined cost will be more expensive though.

Undertank heater mat

These became quite popular in the 1990s, but I don’t recommend them. The theory is great: you place your tank on a heater mat, which warms the tank through the glass. The temperature is controlled via a separate thermostat. An ugly thing is removed from your fish tank.

Unfortunately, glass is a bad conductor of heat, and gravel on the bottom of the tank doesn’t help with  circulation at all. This can make using these units rather erratic. Worse, if the heater fails you’ll need to drain and move your tank to replace the heater.

Best left for keepers of tropical reptiles and amphibians, in my view.

Heating cable

These don’t replace normal heaters, but rather are an addition to help grow plants. They are thin cables that you snake through the aquarium gravel. They are usually fixed in place with suckers before the substrate is put on top.

The idea is that the gentle local heating promotes water movement through the aquarium gravel, stimulating the roots of plants just like springs in nature, and helping with fertilization.

Heating cables were very popular a decade or two ago with planted systems from the likes of Dernelle and Dupla. However many modern aquascapers (including the Japanese planted tank master Amano) don’t use them.

Heater cables may be worth experimenting with if you’ve got several tanks, but expensive and certainly not essential for plant growth.

In-line heater

If you use an external filter, you can buy heaters from manufacturers like Hydor that you plumb into the tubing between your external filter and your tank. As water runs through the heater it’s warmed up, which provided you use a sufficiently powerful filter pump can be an efficient way of heating the tank.

The external casing of an in-line heater is usually made of heatproof plastic, so it’s safe to hold, and won’t start fires. But the bigger advantage is that you’ve got the heater out of the aquarium, which could be good if you’re aquascaping or keeping fish that could burn themselves (some big catfish or seahorses, for example) or that will even fight with equipment (certain cichlids in freshwater tanks, and triggers in marine tanks).

In-line heaters are quite new, however, and more expensive than normal units. There’s also a danger with anything plumped in-line that it can come unplumbed. Every extra cut in the tubing is another opportunity for leaks.

External heater/filter (thermofilter)

Some external filters combined filtration with heating in the same bit of kit. Water passing through the filter is also heated, with the temperature controlled by settings built on top of the filter canister.

The advantage with these units is no extra plumbing, and no danger of the leaks we just mentioned. Disadvantages include the cost – more than the equivalent filter plus even an in-line heater, let alone a conventional heater/thermostat – plus the fact that if the heater fails you’ll have to discard the whole device.

The most popular make, the Ehiem Thermofilters, have a good reputation for reliability, but everything man-made will fail someday. Also note that if you keep marines, make extra sure the heater/filter is suitable for saltwater use. Some aren’t.

Other things you’ll need when heating an aquarium

A thermometer: This is essential, to enable you to monitor the tank temperature and to look out for heater failures.

Spare heater: Always have at least one spare heater in the house, in case yours fails. Even if you live minutes from the local fish store, you can bet your heater will fail on a Sunday, or at midnight when it’s closed.

A heater guard: These are cheap plastic guards that fit over the heating element of a conventional heater. They are said not to affect its performance, and they will stop some fish burning themselves on a very hot unit. I’ve used them in seahorse tanks, since seahorses will wrap their tails around anything they can. May be worth the small amount of money they cost.

Further reading:

1. Choosing filters for fish tanks
2. Tropical Fish How To Guide
3. Fluval Edge aquarium offers style in a box

Tunze says its new Silence pumps will be very quiet in operation (no surprise, given the name!) Extra emphasis in the initial marketing for the Tunze Silence range also puts emphasis on the pumps’ green credentials, with the pumps moving a lot of water for the watts (see graphs below).

Here’s how the pumps perform on paper:

Recirculation pump Silence (Model 1073.020)

Price: £55.50 (UK) $84.88 (US)
Pumping capacity: 2,400 l/h (634 US gal/h).
Energy consumption: 30 W.
Pumping head: 2 m (78.7 in.).
Voltage / frequency: 230 V / 50 Hz (115 V / 60 Hz).

Recirculation pump Silence (Model 1073.040)

Price: £93.60 (UK) $143.10 (US)
Pumping capacity: 3,000 l/h (792 US gal/h).
Energy consumption: 42 W.
Pumping head: 3 m (118.1 in.).
Voltage / frequency: 230 V / 50 Hz (115 V / 60 Hz).

Model 1073.020 performance graph

Model 1073.040 performance graph

It will be interesting to see how the Silence pumps perform in long-term tests, particularly at those keen price points.

Further reading:

1. New Ecotech Marine Vortech 20 pump looks promising
2. EcoTech Marine reveals the Vortech MP10 pump
3. The Reef Tank launches comparison shopping service

Warning: I am not an electrician, so check with your aquarium shop and equipment manufacturer as required, or ask a qualified electrician.

Set-up your tank with safety uppermost

Secure all cables in and around the aquarium out of the way behind the aquarium stand. The optimal set-up will use drip loops on any electrical cables coming out of the tank.

Using drip loops, the appliance cable loops down towards the floor before rising again and continuing on to the distant power supply. Water creeping from the tank for any reason therefore drips onto the floor before reaching the power supply. (How to fit a drip loop).

Electrical outlets mounted up the wall further reduce the risk of water creeping into the fittings. A more feasible option for already-wired homes is to connect electrical devices to an extension block, and to mount this higher up the wall before in turn connecting it the power supply.

Cut the power if you’re working on the tank

Always turn off the power at the mains when working on your tank – whether you’re putting your hands in the tank, or just doing maintenance work like securing the tank lights or adjusting the filters.

Check for the appropriate safety labels

These vary around the world, so check with your local jurisdiction to ensure any appliance you buy for your tank has been fully approved. Ask your pet shop to point out such notices on the equipment packaging if unsure.

Only use proper aquarium equipment

Some people create DIY lighting rigs, or use other sorts of jerry-rigged equipment on their aquarium. This is not recommended unless you’re an expert. Electrical equipment should be designed and approved for aquarium use. Old or even new equipment can fail at any time, so such approval is no excuse NOT to turn off the power at the mains.

Buy and use a circuit breaker

These are sold under different names and in slightly different forms, including fault-current breakers, earth leakage circuit breakers and ground fault circuit interrupters. In general they fit between your aquarium appliance and the wall socket. If a fault occurs they will cut the electrical current, which can be a lifesaver. You should still turn off the power at the wall to be safe, though, when working on the tank. Also watch out for them cutting power unseen and subsequent problems in your tank.

More information on circuit breakers:

• An extensive guide to earth leakage circuit breakers and aquariums.
• A general article on ground fault circuit interrupters.

Don’t attempt home repairs on electrical equipment

Repairing electrical equipment yourself is just not worth the risk. Return the device to the manufacturer, or if it’s out of warranty see if your pet store can help. It’s usually better and more affordable to replace aquarium devices that are damaged.

Further reading:

1. Indonesian reef restored via underwater electrical structures
2. How to choose an aquarium heater
3. Prepare your aquarium before you go on vacation

To learn how to add fish once your tank is ready, read Aquadaily’s article on how to set up a tropical tank. Also read our article on choosing filters.

Further reading:

1. Tropical Fish How To Guide
2. A tour of an unusual tropical set-up: Video of the week
3. Pink Skunk clownfish spawning video